The pleasant way to get there is to walk. Hyde Park lies along the eastern side of the
main city district, so you can reach it by heading up almost any east-west
street in the middle of the city. If you
miss it, you will probably bump into either the open grassed areas of the
Domain, or the Royal Botanic Gardens.
Between them, these three open areas make an almost continuous belt of green,
penetrating more than a mile from the harbour, up into the CBD.
There are no real times for Hyde Park to be open, and no
gates or fences to keep you out, but it may not be the best of places to wander
in the middle of the night. It is not,
however, a muggers' paradise like Central Park in New York. Not yet, anyway... On the other hand, it would be a shame not to
go there at night, for the giant Moreton Bay fig trees are filled with tiny bud
lights, making the park a fairyland for young children. Fairyland with a bite, maybe, for you will
often hear the harsh squabbling of the fruit bats as they feast on the figs overhead.
Tawny frogmouth, Middle Head, Sydney. |
In about 1992, I was working nearby, took a camera into the park in the
early morning, at a time when I calculated that the perch would be in sunlight,
and took several careful photos. An old
man, one of life's less fortunate beings, wandered past. He stopped to see what my target was, and
said gravely, ‘Excuse me, mate, I think that kookaburra's dead.’ Then he wandered on without waiting for a
reply. Next came one of the gardeners,
wanting to know how I had stuck ‘that thing’ up in the tree. She had been working in the immediate area
for a month, and had never noticed the bird on its branch, just three metres
up.
The gardeners know all about the other wild life in the
park. There is an active population of
possums living there, and the thick leaf litter of the garden beds provides a
rich source of invertebrates to stoke a food chain which is also supported by
the park's visitors.
The invertebrates have mostly come in with potted plants at
various times, and include some rare treasures. Around that time, I worked at the nearby museum, and we were in the habit
of paying serious money to get Peripatus,
velvet worms, from Victoria, so we could show these unusual animals to people.
Velvet worms have stubby little legs, and look like the
missing links between the worms and the arthropods. They catch their prey by spitting sticky
slime at them, but they look delightful, with a jet-black matte skin. You can imagine my delight (and the museum
accountant's annoyance) when a children's workshop that I was running started
to find velvet worms in leaf litter samples from Hyde Park! Later, we found giant pseudoscorpions, 5 mm
in length, and all sorts of other treasures that the passing tourist would
never know about. My friends the
gardeners were equally excited when I took part of our catch back to show them what we were getting.
Once upon a time, it was just a race course and a cricket
ground, sometimes referred to as ‘the exercising ground’. By 1816, it was Hyde Park, but even in 1840
it was nothing grand. Mrs. Charles
Meredith called it ‘a park utterly destitute of trees . . . merely a large
piece of brown ground fenced in, where is a well of good water, from which most
of the houses are supplied by means of water-carts.’
Hyde Park in the 1850s: no trees, but sheep as lawn mowers. |
Here, that usually reliable observer was a little off
beam. After the original water supply
for Sydney, the Tank Stream, was completely polluted, Busby's Bore was
established. The ‘Bore’ was a long
sloping tunnel, running down from swamps in what is now Centennial Park to Hyde
Park. From there, the water ran in wooden
above-ground pipes to the corner of Elizabeth and Park Streets, high enough for
the water carts to be filled by water pouring from the pipes.
At least one modern guide-book to Sydney tells a sad tale of
the convicts toiling away with windlass and bucket, hauling water to the
surface, but the whole tunnel was started at the lower end, at ground level,
and was always drained on gravity. The
only thing to be hauled out by windlass was the rock spoil from the tunnel,
once the tunnel had gone far enough to make it difficult to haul the
spoil back to the lower opening.
Water remains a theme throughout the park, with fountains
and pools in many places. The Archibald
Fountain at the northern end is a delight when it is running On a more serious note, the southern end of
the park contains a large War Memorial and the Pool of Remembrance, which seems
mainly to commemorate fallen leaves and ice cream wrappers.
The statue of James Cook at the southern end was set up
where he could look down on the harbour, but now the trees have grown,
buildings have sprung up, and poor old Cook is more or less landlocked. Still, the statue can, if viewed from the
appropriate angle, cause uncontrolled lewdness and hilarity in most
adolescents, due to a most unfortunate telescope.
The Archibald fountain can be fun when the wind blows. |
Hyde Park is largely a passive activity area, although the
old men who play chess there are anything but passive, crowing with delight as
they capture each other's pieces. This
activity is well worth watching, but be warned: they can be scathing in their
response to those who offer advice.
Their version of chess is a no-quarters form of psychological warfare,
and no prisoners are taken.
Anybody who walks there often gets to recognise the
regulars, like the man with the long pole who goes around putting slices of
bread in the trees for the possums, the power-walkers, the dawdlers and the
bird-watchers. The gardeners know the
regulars as well, and when a flower bed is cleaned out in the early morning,
the flowers are saved in bundles, and handed out to the recognised faces as they
trudged along the gravel paths. In a city
of five million people, it is nice to know that there can still be a
sense of community like that.
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