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Er collectors call this "a shield" — but is it? |
All the day birds are silent at this hour, though I can hear
one mopoke making his mournful cry of ‘more pork’ away in the distance. We hurry into the clothing we laid out the
night before, grab up the rucksack of water bottles, coffee flask and fruit,
and then we sneak quietly out into the car and away.
In sunlight, water on the rock makes the images show up. This is the only approved way, but there are lots of wrong ways. |
This is a wrong way. Some idiot has scratched the surface, and missed the line. Notice the 38mm 50-cent coin for scale. |
We have been this way be
fore, and we know from the tracks and scats we have seen that there are quite a few mammals in this area, so we walk quietly. There is barely any breeze, but what little there is blows towards us. We maintain our hope, but we also maintain our pace, for the wildlife is a secondary concern this morning.
On a rock ledge that looks out to sea, there is a swarm of
faintly engraved animals. There are at
least eight kinds of fish, lizards, and many other shapes that are too faint to
see clearly. We are here now because the
early morning sun will have to slant across the ledge, bringing the faint
grooves into sharp relief, and we plan to photograph as much as we can. The engravings are at least 200 years old,
but probably they are older, very much older.
fore, and we know from the tracks and scats we have seen that there are quite a few mammals in this area, so we walk quietly. There is barely any breeze, but what little there is blows towards us. We maintain our hope, but we also maintain our pace, for the wildlife is a secondary concern this morning.
Professionals (I'm not one) carry proper scales like this. |
I first heard of this ledge from a friend. Some years ago, I carried his book on the
area up here, and followed his vague instructions. He is delightfully vague, as I discovered
when we collaborated on a book some years ago, but I think the vagueness here may well have been calculated to make those lacking commitment retreat in dismay. Anyhow, at
first, I managed to get lost all over the mountainside.
After a while, I found three small groups and
one very good site, but I eventually despaired of ever finding the famous
ledge. Heading back to the car, I went
across country and stopped on the edge of a small cliff line to drink some
water. Stepping forward to look over the
edge, I realised that I was about to tread on a whole mess of fish.
These are probably eels. There is often a pool nearby. |
Most engraving sites are in places with good views, and this
one is no exception. From here, you can
see the highest of Sydney's city buildings, some 30 km to the south. Close by in the east, you can see Pittwater,
the next harbour up the coast from Sydney, a few small patches of settlement,
and a huge expanse of unbroken bush, with the Pacific Ocean lying beyond
that. By careful selection, you can see
the view almost as it was before the white man came.
Probably meant to be a goanna: see my previous entry for more on these animals |
The sad fact about these sites is that nobody knows enough
about them to say anything at all with any real certainty. The people who knew the answers nearly all
died within a few years of the arrival of the first whites, mainly from
disease. The remainder had their society
shattered by the trauma of their losses: with few descendants to pass their
culture on to, they took their surviving secrets to their graves. Her theory sounds like a good one, we decide.
We know how they were made, though, because when the makers died, there were some works-in-progress. The makers used a larger stone as a hammer, and pecked small holes in the stone by hitting a piece of ironstone. Then they used something like ironstone to gouge a groove, joining the holes.
We know how they were made, though, because when the makers died, there were some works-in-progress. The makers used a larger stone as a hammer, and pecked small holes in the stone by hitting a piece of ironstone. Then they used something like ironstone to gouge a groove, joining the holes.
By now the sun is just beginning to slant across the
rock. My son sets up the camera on a
tripod, lays a metric scale on the rock, and we start photographing
systematically. We repeat this every
five minutes until the grooves start to fade with the rising sun, and then
retreat back down the mountain. Fruit
may fend off hunger, but now we need a serious breakfast.
This is an emu, but from this angle, it is upside-down. |
The stereo in their car is playing ‘Ride of the Valkyries’, and they are lustily croaking all the ‘Tojohojo’ bits and giggling as they go.
We call this a spirit figure. |
I must tell you all about them, one day.
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