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Saturday, 18 April 2020

Bolters, part 9 of many


Clarke the Barber

A few convicts were accepted by the Indigenous people, but the original inhabitants were choosy. Watkin Tench wrote, probably about John Caesar, a man of African ancestry, who was one of the rejects:

One of the convicts, a negro, had twice eloped, with an intention of establishing himself in the society of the natives, with a wish to adopt their customs and to live with them: but he was always repulsed by them; and compelled to return to us from hunger and wretchedness. [1]

Watkin Tench interviewed the survivors of one group of escaped convicts known as Bryant’s party and reported that when they approached land, while sailing along the coast from Sydney to Timor, they often had to flee when threatened by locals. [2]

Against that, we have the more successful adoption cases of William Buckley in Port Phillip (said to be the original Buckley of “Buckley’s chance”), Eliza Fraser of Fraser Island, Barbara Thomson who was rescued from Torres Strait by the crew of HMS Rattlesnake and Tarwood’s party, taken in by the Indigenous people at Port Stephens, north of Newcastle (you will meet them in #11). Some whites were fitted in, and were able to fit in.

And that brings us to a runaway convict called George Clarke, otherwise known as ‘the barber’. Clarke escaped from the Hunter Valley and lived among the Kamilaroi people. He had the scars of an initiated man, but he had been stealing cattle.

Recaptured and questioned in 1831, he had a tale to tell. He said he had heard of a river called the Kindur, running to the north-west, and decided to follow it, hoping to reach another country. He claimed to have followed the Kindur, a fine broad river that flowed to the northwest all the way to the sea. Ernest Favenc argued plausibly that Clarke’s yarn was fabricated to save him from a flogging when he returned but, naturally enough, Clarke the barber claimed that it was all true.

The river was navigable, so ships could sail it, he said, and it flowed on. He was not sure how far it went, but it never flowed to the south of west. In other words, here was a perfect path to take people up into northern Australia, a marvellous river on which to progress toward great riches. He pitched a good yarn: see for yourself:

I always had a great desire to be free from all restraint, and the last time, which is the third that I took to the bush, I determined to proceed as far into the interior as I could get. I also thought, that by making important discoveries in the interior, I should have been pardoned, and have received encouragement from the Government.

I soon effected a junction with a tribe of blacks at Liverpool Plains, and by acquiring their language and assimilating to their manners, I also acquired their good-will. They treated me as one of themselves. I quitted my European costume a little at a time, and felt no inconvenience whatever from the loss. As remaining with this tribe, although attached to me, was not my object, for fear of being recognised by my countrymen, I joined another tribe, and went with them to a place called in the native language Bresa, about 30 miles to the north-west of Liverpool Plains.

I particularly remarked, that the natives, as soon as we got beyond the stations of the settlers, assumed a more active and cleanly appearance; indeed, the wild tribes in the interior are a much superior race to the blacks who frequent our stock stations. From Liverpool Plains I proceeded with a third tribe to Tuaubilla, about 200 miles north-west from that place without discerning any thing of note.

The country was remarkably rich in pasture, well supplied with water, and covered with many large plains. A river, the Numeva, runs from Liverpool Plains to Tuaubilla, which is well supplied with fish. Proceeding down the Numeva, a short distance beyond Tuaubilla, the ground became boggy, and at last presented one vast bog or morass, the river holding its course through the centre.

We crossed a range of mountains to the north, and after a few days, arrived at another river of some magnitude, named Keindooa. There I left the tribe I had come with, as they were returning, and I joined another who inhabited the country north-west of the river Keindooa. The country from this river, changed its aspect altogether. The land was low and level, with few mounts, and without any extended range of hills. The verdure was luxuriant, quite different to any I had before seen.

Grass herbs in abundance, and in clear parts, a multitude of enormous sow-thistles. The grass there produces a large seed, which is gathered by the natives, pounded between stones into a pulp, and baked in the ashes as food. It was palatable, and resembled bread made from grown wheat.

The Keindooa is divided from the Numeva which last is known to my countrymen) by a range of mountains difficult of access. There are few passes over the mountains, but one of them, if improved, would afford an easy ingress to the flat country for drays and horses. The difficulty in crossing the range, consists in the scarcity of water, which, unless the springs be known to the traveller, would leave him exhausted and oblige him to return.

The part where we made the river Keindooa (after crossing the range) was called Curribingee. Thence we proceeded down the river about west. About 250 miles to the north-west of Curribingee, there is a burning mountain called Coorala. The flame and smoke emitted from the mountain can be seen a great distance. I did not ascend the mountain. Round the base is a quantity of red stone, resembling pumice stone; also a substance resembling allum, which, dissolved in water, had the same taste. The natives say, it is to be had in large quantities. It is called by them Boullau.

We proceeded down the river and at last made the sea, into which the Keindooa discharges itself with a broad mouth. The coast was rather low as far as we could see, and just in sight to the south-west we saw an island; but no other land to sea-ward Along the coast, trees, the wood of which is of a deep red colour, had been felled apparently with a small blunt axe; the barrel of each tree (of a good length) had been cut out by a similar instrument, but was gone.

The natives informed me, that people of a light colour came there with large boats, and took the wood away to the northward. I determined to keep with this tribe, until the return of the adventurers, and then to join them; but in the mean time, we again proceeded into the interior. The coast presents a low bleak appearance, and about mile and a half from the sea, the strand is bounded by a low range of mountains, which run along the coast.

When this range is crossed, the country is fertile in the extreme, and very beautiful, as I have before described. There is another species of wood there, which I never saw before, milk white, with a very fine grain, but so hard, that it is difficult to cut it, The natives make their bumbarines and other instruments of war out of this wood, which never breaks; the leaf is in shape like that of the oak, but very rough.

The trees cut by the strangers and removed, were low and very umbrageous; the leaf of a dark blue colour. The pine tree grows in abundance in this country, and is very tall and straight. The natives are remarkably cleanly, kind, and industrious; in nowise like the blacks about the settlements of the Colony. They are provided with tomahawks and knives made from a blue transparent stone, of uncommon hardness, seldom or never breaking.

They grind them to a fine edge by means of other stones. The river Keindooa abounds with fish; one in particular being very fine, resembling a cod-fish, only having very large sharp fins. In the country at the upper part of the river is found stones of beautiful appearance, but what to call them I know not. There are no kangaroos in that country, but there is a small species of bush wallaby, very small; plenty of emu however and black swans, geese, ducks, and birds of fine plumage.

In hopes of being able to provide myself with a few necessaries from my countrymen at Bathurst, I returned by another route to Mullala (250 miles from Bathurst), where I was captured by Serjeant Wilcox. As I never committed any crimes beyond those of theft; I was in hopes my sufferings and my discoveries would have induced the Governor to extend a pardon to me at once, when I would willingly have conducted a party to the places I now describe, and I would also have made other discoveries, which might have proved of service to my country.

GEORGE CLARK

H. M. Gaol, Sydney, Jan. 1832. [3]


The government fell for it, as governments will, because they wanted to believe. A navigable river would be better than an inland sea, and the acting governor of New South Wales, Sir Patrick Lindesay, sent Major Thomas Mitchell out to investigate in November 1831. He went across the Peel, over the Hardwicke Range, and reached the Namoi River about three weeks later.

Expecting a navigable waterway, the party had come equipped with canvas boats, but these snagged in the river, so the party reverted to horseback. They reached the Gwydir, turned west along it for 80 miles (128 kilometres), then struck north to a grand river known locally as Karaula. Mitchell followed this down till the Gwydir joined it and, given that it was heading south, deduced that this was Sturt’s Darling River.

Some of the early explorers who were born and raised in Europe had problems when it came to travelling in Australia. They followed river valleys, because they were used to glaciated landforms where the valleys were broad and easy to walk along. In the old Australian geology, where chasms had been carved by millennia of rare floods, that was not a good move.

Australian valleys were often steep-sided and hard to get out of, and the narrow defile at the bottom was usually blocked by rock fragments that had tumbled down at some point after the valley was carved. Worst of all, there was usually no crystal stream gurgling along, as there would be in any decent European valley.

In the same way, based on what was known of other continents, Major Mitchell, like Banks, Grey and others, was willing to believe in the myth of a great river, stretching across the continent, even though careful mapping of the coast had failed to reveal the mouth of any such river. He had been told by a liar that the river existed, and that was enough.

All the same, if the Kindur River was a non-starter, the rivers had to flow somewhere, so the prospect of an inland sea remained good. Just as the Greek and Roman originators of the European culture once saw their world as surrounding the Mediterranean Sea, so the new Australians dreamed of a continent surrounding an inland sea, hopefully with snow-capped alps somewhere about the Gibson Desert—but not everybody was convinced. Eyre certainly was doubtful.



[1] Watkin Tench, A Complete Account of the Settlement at Port Jackson, 144.
[2] Watkin Tench, A Complete Account of the Settlement at Port Jackson, 147.

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