What colonial Australians ate
ROSETTA STABLER respectfully acquaints the Public that she prepares Boiled Mutton and Broths every day at 12 o’clock, and a joint of Meat Roasted always ready at One, which, from its quality and mode of serving, she flatters herself will attract the Notice of the Public. Visitors from remote Settlements, Mariners, &c will find a convenient Accommodation at a moderate expence, and every exertion will be made to render satisfaction.—The Sydney Gazette and New South Wales Advertiser, 26 June 1803, 4.
S. T. Gill: Ticket to the First Subscription Ball, Ballarat, 1854.
In
1817, Sydney had 52 licensed liquor outlets, Parramatta had 12, Windsor had 4
and Liverpool 3, while Castlereagh had just one, Charles Hadley’s ‘First and
Last’. Two brewing licences went to Sydney, and one to Parramatta.
And all Persons, other than those mentioned in the foregoing List as duly qualified and licensed, are strictly prohibited from vending Wine, Spirits, or Beer, or the Brewing of Beer, on Pain of being prosecuted and fined, according to the Colonial Regulations.
— The Sydney Gazette and New South Wales Advertiser, 19 April 1817, 1, http://trove.nla.gov.au/ndp/del/article/2177180
Figures are hard to come by, but in 1859, Frank Fowler said there were no less than five hundred public-houses in Sydney and its immediate neighbourhood, while in 1883, Richard Twopeny said that Melbourne had 1120. [i]
There was no shortage of legitimate liquor sellers in the cities: Gerstäcker noticed this on landing in Sydney in 1851, just before gold fever began. He saw many “dram-shops”.
I was struck by the immense number of dram-shops in the streets; in Pitt-street and many other places they stand house on house, and nearly every corner is sure to be a grog-shop, with the government license upon it to sell spirituous and fermented liquors; and drunken men and women you meet nearly every where. I have really never been in any place yet where I saw so many drunkards as in Sydney, and, more disgusting still, drunken women.
— Friedrich Gerstäcker, Narrative of a Journey Around the World, 388 – 9.
In
the days of the gold rush, William Kelly noted the same ‘corner effect’ in
Melbourne, where such premises invited both streets equally, and the equality
went further:
The bars were always full, the tap-rooms always crowded, and in those resorts, at least, there was no disproportion of the sexes. The women were as numerous as the men, and asserted the equality of their gentle genders by as deep potations, and as blasphemous and obscene vociferations, as their rougher associates.
— William Kelly, Life in Victoria or Victoria in 1853, and Victoria in 1858, vol 1, 50.
Less
is said about places where meals might be served, but they must have been
there, because as we shall see in chapter 15, there were many food places on
country roads. Friedrich Gerstäcker certainly saw food being sold in Sydney:
Bread and vegetable-carts meet your eye wherever you look, light milk-carts rattle through the streets early in the morning, and their bells summon the housemaids to the door. “Hot pies, penny a-piece,” are loudly offered, nearly at every street corner, fishmongers drag their hand-trucks through the crowd, and fruit-stalls, with oranges and apples, are every where to be seen at this season of the year.
— Friedrich Gerstäcker, Narrative of a Journey Around the World, 388.
There
were certainly prawns to be had, sixpence a pint in Sydney, a shilling in
Melbourne, though not always at the most convenient of times. In Sydney,
They are brought to the former place by the Hunter river steamers, and as these boats generally arrive late at night it is not unusual to be awakened from your sleep at one or two in the morning by a fellow shouting “Fine fresh Prawns” just under your window. If the musquitoes are about it is as well to buy some of these prawns, and sit at the window and eat them for amusement.
— Frank Fowler, Southern Lights, 1859.